I was very excited. Not only did the airport still have copies of Harry Potter, but a series of fortunate events would lead me to arrive in Detroit three hours earlier than previously planned. As an aside, I searched and searched for the final Harry Potter book my last day in Spain, but they were all sold out. It was completely rediculous! Not enough people in Chile speak English to buy all those Harry Potter books!
Anyway, my flight had been delayed and I would miss my connecting flight to Chicago, but the airline made arrangements to get me on a direct flight to Detroit. I was beyond thrilled. I couldn't sleep all the way home. I read Harry Potter all night.
When I arrived in Dallas and turned on my cell phone, I had already received a message from Lerone: "Welcome back!"
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Nearing the End
The last few days in Chile are sort of a blur to me. I remember calling the program and telling them I wanted to go home, but I don't remember what day that was. They were great and understanding, and said, "Go! It is the best decision for you." I changed my plane ticket and found out I would be flying out on Thursday.
Saying goodbye to Claudia was very difficult. She, her mom, and Maria Alicia came over on my last night. I made another pie and we drank the bottle of Bailey's that Maria Alicia gave me on the 4th of July but I wasn't allowed to drink because I was sick and taking medication. They tried to teach me to dance the Cueca, the national dance of Chile. But I was a little too tipsy and too akward to learn it.
Thursday was the most beautiful day in Chile. The sun was out, it was warm, and the mountains were snow-covered and beautiful. In the morning, Rosa, Maria Alicia, and I boarded a bus to Santiago. It was sad to say goodbye to the house, the town, even the crazy barking dogs and crowing roosters. We stashed our luggage at the bus station and went to a museum together. Then, I treated the ladies to one of the better restaurants in the city, Como Agua para Chocolate, inspired by the book Like Water for Chocolate. It was delicious and fun; the main table at the restaurant was a big brass bed with sheets for a tablecloth. We had tea with Rosa's brother and then went back to the bus station, where Maria Alicia went back home. Rosa was continuing on to her half-sister's home after I went to the airport. While we were waiting for her brother-in-law to pick us up, a small stray dog came and sat by me. It had a terrible eye infection, but was otherwise quite adorable. I spoke with it a bit and when we got up to leave he tried to follow us. He chased me two blocks to the waiting car and heeled better than Poopy ever does. When I got in the car, he gave me the saddest look: "Why are you leaving?" After such a great day, I was beginning to wonder the same thing.
Piero was at the airport already waiting for us; he had just arrived from the northern part of the country. I was glad to be able to say goodbye to him as well. He was such a great "Perkins" for me when I was sick.
Rosa and I both cried.
Saying goodbye to Claudia was very difficult. She, her mom, and Maria Alicia came over on my last night. I made another pie and we drank the bottle of Bailey's that Maria Alicia gave me on the 4th of July but I wasn't allowed to drink because I was sick and taking medication. They tried to teach me to dance the Cueca, the national dance of Chile. But I was a little too tipsy and too akward to learn it.
Thursday was the most beautiful day in Chile. The sun was out, it was warm, and the mountains were snow-covered and beautiful. In the morning, Rosa, Maria Alicia, and I boarded a bus to Santiago. It was sad to say goodbye to the house, the town, even the crazy barking dogs and crowing roosters. We stashed our luggage at the bus station and went to a museum together. Then, I treated the ladies to one of the better restaurants in the city, Como Agua para Chocolate, inspired by the book Like Water for Chocolate. It was delicious and fun; the main table at the restaurant was a big brass bed with sheets for a tablecloth. We had tea with Rosa's brother and then went back to the bus station, where Maria Alicia went back home. Rosa was continuing on to her half-sister's home after I went to the airport. While we were waiting for her brother-in-law to pick us up, a small stray dog came and sat by me. It had a terrible eye infection, but was otherwise quite adorable. I spoke with it a bit and when we got up to leave he tried to follow us. He chased me two blocks to the waiting car and heeled better than Poopy ever does. When I got in the car, he gave me the saddest look: "Why are you leaving?" After such a great day, I was beginning to wonder the same thing.
Piero was at the airport already waiting for us; he had just arrived from the northern part of the country. I was glad to be able to say goodbye to him as well. He was such a great "Perkins" for me when I was sick.
Rosa and I both cried.
Touring Chiloe
Caroline and I toured Ancud together. We went to the Chiloe History Museum where I learned about the Great Chilean Earthquake of 1960. The earthquake was the largest ever recorded, 9.5 on the Richter scale, and the resulting tsunamis destroyed parts of Chile, Hawaii, and Japan. The hardest hit area was around Chiloe. Many of the historic buildings were destroyed. I asked Rosa if she was still living in Chiloe when the earthquake hit, but she had already moved north with her family. Still, some of Rosa's family remained. Many of them were fishermen and they noticed the sea retreating so they went to the higher ground and were safe. Rosa said it was only the people that were in denial that stayed at sea level. Still, the tsunami caused much destruction. The museum also housed a skeleton of a blue whale. I was very impressed. The thing was huge!
Caroline and I then sought out lunch. We found a cafe on the main plaza. I was thrilled to see hamburguesa americana on the menu. I am not a hamburger eater in general, but I was so homesick that nothing sounded better than a gigantic burger and fries. And it was gigantic. After, we toured a small fort that remains on the island. But then it began to rain so we rushed back to the downtown area and went to the covered market where they sell traditional Chilota wood and wool crafts. I also found some alpaca wraps, so I bought two for my mom (although I did wear one that night to keep out the cold. Don't tell her).
The next day, Rosa, her father, Caroline, and I took a bus an hour south to Castro, the capitol of Chiloe. Rosa's two brothers who died in infancy are buried in the graveyard there and she wanted to visit them. Castro has an amazing cathedral. It is completely made of wood and it was built with no nails. While Rosa and Zenobio went to the graveyard, Caroline and I went to the internet cafe. It was Lerone's birthday and I was thrilled that he was online and I could talk to him for just a few minutes. The four of us ate at a restaurant built on poles over the water, called palofitos. Even though they boasted great seafood, I was happy with just basic chicken and potatoes. While we were eating, dolphins were playing just outside our window. It was quite charming. Right across the street was the Castro market. This was much bigger than the market in Ancud with endless stalls of Chilota wool and wood crafts. There were bread baskets, napkin holders, toys, waterproof ponchos (made with untreated wool), skirts, hats, and liquor! I bought a blue hat which has since been called "grandma-ish," a blue alpaca wrap, and Licor de Oro. Licor de Oro is made only in Chiloe. Traditionally, it is an apple liquor tinted with saffron, but now they make many other types. The man at the stand offered me tastes and I'm pretty sure I tried a little half shot of each one. Rosa gently reminded me: "Jen, you've got to get out of here on your own two feet." In the end, I bought a raspberry licor, a chocolate licor, and a coffee licor.
That night, we went again to the farmhouse. I played more cards with the kids and ate a big fried meal. Actually, it was very delicious. There were fried bread twists dusted with sugar and some without. There were fried and baked potato patties. We also had more pork (the whole dead pig was decimated during our stay). I also was contracted to make a pie. They brought out apples from the farm that were tiny and wrinkled, but had been dried and preserved from the fall. Rosa's cousin made a crust, but Caroline and her cousin had to go buy eggs from the neighbor. Caroline said that they paid the equivalent of 20 cents and got a dozen eggs (still warm from the nest) and the neighbors invited them in for tea. The two girls ran back through a thunderstorm, but we were able to make the pie. This whole time we had no power. The power had been turned off by the city for repairs. Because the family had a well, we also had no water. Instead, they collected rainwater that fell off the roof to make tea, which I declined. The power came back on, but only briefly. Just as it was getting dark, we lost power again and we had to cook and eat by the light of candles. I tried not to eat too much of the fried stuff, but it was delicious. And my pie was a big success.
Finally, we had to say goodnight and goodbye and the next day we boarded another Salon Cama that took us all 1000 miles back to Santiago.
Caroline and I then sought out lunch. We found a cafe on the main plaza. I was thrilled to see hamburguesa americana on the menu. I am not a hamburger eater in general, but I was so homesick that nothing sounded better than a gigantic burger and fries. And it was gigantic. After, we toured a small fort that remains on the island. But then it began to rain so we rushed back to the downtown area and went to the covered market where they sell traditional Chilota wood and wool crafts. I also found some alpaca wraps, so I bought two for my mom (although I did wear one that night to keep out the cold. Don't tell her).
The next day, Rosa, her father, Caroline, and I took a bus an hour south to Castro, the capitol of Chiloe. Rosa's two brothers who died in infancy are buried in the graveyard there and she wanted to visit them. Castro has an amazing cathedral. It is completely made of wood and it was built with no nails. While Rosa and Zenobio went to the graveyard, Caroline and I went to the internet cafe. It was Lerone's birthday and I was thrilled that he was online and I could talk to him for just a few minutes. The four of us ate at a restaurant built on poles over the water, called palofitos. Even though they boasted great seafood, I was happy with just basic chicken and potatoes. While we were eating, dolphins were playing just outside our window. It was quite charming. Right across the street was the Castro market. This was much bigger than the market in Ancud with endless stalls of Chilota wool and wood crafts. There were bread baskets, napkin holders, toys, waterproof ponchos (made with untreated wool), skirts, hats, and liquor! I bought a blue hat which has since been called "grandma-ish," a blue alpaca wrap, and Licor de Oro. Licor de Oro is made only in Chiloe. Traditionally, it is an apple liquor tinted with saffron, but now they make many other types. The man at the stand offered me tastes and I'm pretty sure I tried a little half shot of each one. Rosa gently reminded me: "Jen, you've got to get out of here on your own two feet." In the end, I bought a raspberry licor, a chocolate licor, and a coffee licor.
That night, we went again to the farmhouse. I played more cards with the kids and ate a big fried meal. Actually, it was very delicious. There were fried bread twists dusted with sugar and some without. There were fried and baked potato patties. We also had more pork (the whole dead pig was decimated during our stay). I also was contracted to make a pie. They brought out apples from the farm that were tiny and wrinkled, but had been dried and preserved from the fall. Rosa's cousin made a crust, but Caroline and her cousin had to go buy eggs from the neighbor. Caroline said that they paid the equivalent of 20 cents and got a dozen eggs (still warm from the nest) and the neighbors invited them in for tea. The two girls ran back through a thunderstorm, but we were able to make the pie. This whole time we had no power. The power had been turned off by the city for repairs. Because the family had a well, we also had no water. Instead, they collected rainwater that fell off the roof to make tea, which I declined. The power came back on, but only briefly. Just as it was getting dark, we lost power again and we had to cook and eat by the light of candles. I tried not to eat too much of the fried stuff, but it was delicious. And my pie was a big success.
Finally, we had to say goodnight and goodbye and the next day we boarded another Salon Cama that took us all 1000 miles back to Santiago.
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Breakdown
I dropped my bags in the room where I would be staying, grabbed my shampoo and soap, and fairly ran to the shower. Showerless hours count: about 60. I hopped in the shower and turned on the water and waited for it to heat up. And waited... and waited... Finally, I decided that a nice hot shower was not in the books and crying, I relented to having a cold shower. I cried throughout it, and as I dried my hair after, and as I got dressed and went upstairs. I called Lerone; I knew that he would make me feel better. When he answered, I said "I want to come home," and cried some more. But Lerone made me feel better, and gave me the courage to go talk to Rosa and tell her that I really wanted to return to the U.S. That it wasn't her fault or the fault of anybody else in Chile. That I just wasn't happy. I was cold, and exhausted, and homesick for the first time ever in my life. I continued crying, so much that I made myself sick and threw up the seaweed and pork. Rosa was wonderful, as she always was. She asked me to stay in Chiloe for a week, instead of the originally planned two, and then we would return home and I could reevaluate my decision of going home.
The next morning Rosa brought me breakfast in bed: coffee and fruitcake. Upon realizing I was still in Chile, I cried a bit more, but soon regained my composure and went downstairs. Rosa, being the amazing woman she is, had heated water to boiling and filled a couple thermoses. She said that the best way to shower would be to mix some of the hot water in a bucket with some of the cooler in the shower, then pour it over my head. I did, and it made me feel so much better. Rosa was going back to the farmhouse to be with her family, but she promised to send me Caroline as my chaperone for the day. Caroline would show me around the city of Ancud.
The next morning Rosa brought me breakfast in bed: coffee and fruitcake. Upon realizing I was still in Chile, I cried a bit more, but soon regained my composure and went downstairs. Rosa, being the amazing woman she is, had heated water to boiling and filled a couple thermoses. She said that the best way to shower would be to mix some of the hot water in a bucket with some of the cooler in the shower, then pour it over my head. I did, and it made me feel so much better. Rosa was going back to the farmhouse to be with her family, but she promised to send me Caroline as my chaperone for the day. Caroline would show me around the city of Ancud.
The Last Leg: On to Chiloe!
The next day I still couldn't shower, but I told myself that I would soon be in Chiloe and then I could get clean and comfortable. All seven of us packed up, caught the microbus, and returned to Osorno that morning. Caroline became my bus partner and official tour guide as we transferred to another bus and headed even further south to the island of Chiloe. Chiloe is South America's second largest island, and the only way to get there is by boat. When we arrived to the Pacific shore, our bus was loaded onto a ferry with another bus, a couple trucks (the one next to me had flammable materials), and several cars for the 40 minute crossing to the island.
Once we crossed, it was just a few more miles to Ancud, and the promise of a warm shower, right? Wrong! One of Rosa's cousins met us at the bus station. He drives a taxi in Ancud. He would take us to the farmhouse of Rosa's aunt and uncle, the grandparents of Caroline and Boris Jr. I was a little bothered because this was not where we would be staying, and there would be no shower for me to use. The farmhouse was filled with other family members, including three adorable cousins, again I have forgotten their names. The place to be was the kitchen, which, in Chiloe style, is the only room in the house with heat. The heat comes from a large wood-burning stove, traditional to the island. It has mutiple burners on top and drawers for cooking or warming food. Benches were built all around it where the family sits to talk. When we arrived, there was a huge pot of soup on the stove. I was thrilled. That is, until it was served to me. In it was not spinach, as I originally had presumed, but rather seaweed. There were also potatoes and some sort of sea creature meat; it looked very tentacle-y. I tried just a few bites, but decided I couldn't eat any more and felt bad for offending the cook.
I never thought we would leave that house! I sat for hours, reading, playing cards with the kids (by the end, they all knew how to play Pesca and Cucharas, even the three-year-old), and trying to keep warm by the stove. While I was seated on the benches, I saw Rosa and her cousin prepare for dinner. They had a saw and were cutting through the bones of a dead, skinned pig hanging in the other room. I wanted to throw up, but I had to remind myself that it was cool in the other room, there were no bugs, and this was the way the Chilotes had been doing things for years. The meat was cooked with garlic over the stove and was quite tasty as a dinner. Finally, around 10pm, we decided to return to the city, where Rosa and I would be staying in the house of some cousins who were out of town (actually, staying back in Rosa's house while they attended a conference in Santiago).
Once we crossed, it was just a few more miles to Ancud, and the promise of a warm shower, right? Wrong! One of Rosa's cousins met us at the bus station. He drives a taxi in Ancud. He would take us to the farmhouse of Rosa's aunt and uncle, the grandparents of Caroline and Boris Jr. I was a little bothered because this was not where we would be staying, and there would be no shower for me to use. The farmhouse was filled with other family members, including three adorable cousins, again I have forgotten their names. The place to be was the kitchen, which, in Chiloe style, is the only room in the house with heat. The heat comes from a large wood-burning stove, traditional to the island. It has mutiple burners on top and drawers for cooking or warming food. Benches were built all around it where the family sits to talk. When we arrived, there was a huge pot of soup on the stove. I was thrilled. That is, until it was served to me. In it was not spinach, as I originally had presumed, but rather seaweed. There were also potatoes and some sort of sea creature meat; it looked very tentacle-y. I tried just a few bites, but decided I couldn't eat any more and felt bad for offending the cook.
I never thought we would leave that house! I sat for hours, reading, playing cards with the kids (by the end, they all knew how to play Pesca and Cucharas, even the three-year-old), and trying to keep warm by the stove. While I was seated on the benches, I saw Rosa and her cousin prepare for dinner. They had a saw and were cutting through the bones of a dead, skinned pig hanging in the other room. I wanted to throw up, but I had to remind myself that it was cool in the other room, there were no bugs, and this was the way the Chilotes had been doing things for years. The meat was cooked with garlic over the stove and was quite tasty as a dinner. Finally, around 10pm, we decided to return to the city, where Rosa and I would be staying in the house of some cousins who were out of town (actually, staying back in Rosa's house while they attended a conference in Santiago).
The Next Leg: Osorno and Entrelagos
Although I didn't get to see much of it, Osorno must've been my least favorite Chilean city. After 10 comfortable hours on the Salon Cama, we arrived in Osorno around 6am. It was dark, chilly, and rainy. As we walked the dirty streets to the local bus station, I observed dogs fighting and sleeping in cardboard boxes - adding further to my desire for the trip to be over. It was a holiday that Monday and the local bus we needed to take to Entrelagos had not started running yet, so we settled in on the cold cement to wait.
We were going to Entrelagos to visit Rosa's cousin, whose name escapes me, her husband, Boris, and their children, Caroline and Boris Jr. There, Rosa would consult with Boris about the construction of her new home on Chiloe, which Piero had drawn plans for. Boris had just finished building a new home for his family. It was small, but comfortable. All I wanted to do was wash the travel grime off of me when we arrived, but Rosa informed me that they did not yet have hot water in the new home. So, instead, I took a nap. Then, we decided to hop on another bus and go to the national park up the volcano. Yes, we were in the volcano zone. Osorno has a stunning volcano, but I couldn't see it that morning or the next because of the darkness and bad weather. I can't remember the name of the volcano whose park we were visiting, but it's famous for its thermal springs. People come from all over to take advantage of the magma-heated waters. There was an indoor pool heated by the volcano; it cost a couple dollars to get in. There also was an outdoor pool bordering the river. We followed the trail and the sound of shouting people to the outdoor pool. About 50 or so Chileans had stripped down to their swim suits in the 40-degree, rainy weather, to go for a therapeutic dip. After a little while in the heated springs, it's customary (and considered healthy), to go jump into the river and cool off. Even though I hadn't showered in over 24 hours, I was not about to expose myself to the elements like that!
That night after dinner, we watched Chilean "Biggest Loser" and I taught the family to play cards. We played Pesca, Go Fish, and Cucharas, Spoons. They were both big hits with the kids.
Rosa and I were sharing a bedroom. Rosa snores... loudly! I tried my earplugs but they were not strong enough. I tried my iPod, but it couldn't drown out the noise. I tried waking up Rosa, but even when she changed positions, she still snored. Finally, frustrated and exhausted, I dragged all the blankets and pillows, my earplugs, and my guatero out into the hall. I made a very uncomfortable and cold bed for myself on the hard floor, and fell asleep.
We were going to Entrelagos to visit Rosa's cousin, whose name escapes me, her husband, Boris, and their children, Caroline and Boris Jr. There, Rosa would consult with Boris about the construction of her new home on Chiloe, which Piero had drawn plans for. Boris had just finished building a new home for his family. It was small, but comfortable. All I wanted to do was wash the travel grime off of me when we arrived, but Rosa informed me that they did not yet have hot water in the new home. So, instead, I took a nap. Then, we decided to hop on another bus and go to the national park up the volcano. Yes, we were in the volcano zone. Osorno has a stunning volcano, but I couldn't see it that morning or the next because of the darkness and bad weather. I can't remember the name of the volcano whose park we were visiting, but it's famous for its thermal springs. People come from all over to take advantage of the magma-heated waters. There was an indoor pool heated by the volcano; it cost a couple dollars to get in. There also was an outdoor pool bordering the river. We followed the trail and the sound of shouting people to the outdoor pool. About 50 or so Chileans had stripped down to their swim suits in the 40-degree, rainy weather, to go for a therapeutic dip. After a little while in the heated springs, it's customary (and considered healthy), to go jump into the river and cool off. Even though I hadn't showered in over 24 hours, I was not about to expose myself to the elements like that!
That night after dinner, we watched Chilean "Biggest Loser" and I taught the family to play cards. We played Pesca, Go Fish, and Cucharas, Spoons. They were both big hits with the kids.
Rosa and I were sharing a bedroom. Rosa snores... loudly! I tried my earplugs but they were not strong enough. I tried my iPod, but it couldn't drown out the noise. I tried waking up Rosa, but even when she changed positions, she still snored. Finally, frustrated and exhausted, I dragged all the blankets and pillows, my earplugs, and my guatero out into the hall. I made a very uncomfortable and cold bed for myself on the hard floor, and fell asleep.
Salon Cama: Or, the Best Night's Sleep in Chile
Since I still have one anxious reader out there who wants to know the end of my Chilean saga, I will resume writing, just a bit.
Rosa, her father (Zenobio), and I left for Chiloe on the 15th of July. I have to admit, I was very disappointed to find out we were taking a bus. Bus travel, to me, seems cramped, slow, and uncomfortable. Especially when our destination was over 1000 miles south of our departure. We took the bus from town down to Santiago, where Piero was going to meet us with our overnight bus tickets. When we arrived, Piero greeted us with a surprise: he bought us Salon Cama tickets! A Salon Cama bus is specifically designed for overnight trips; there were only three seats across instead of four, seats reclined almost completely, and there was an additional leg rest, making for a nice bed. We were served a small dinner and breakfast as well. As I settled in for our first 10 hour leg of the journey south - with my iPod and copy of The Yellow Dog Ate My Homework and Other Colorful Tales - I was much more optimistic about the trip.
Two small downfalls: they showed a movie with no headphones so, no matter what, I had to hear it. I gave in and decided to watch. The bad part? It was the Wayans Brothers' hit film "Little Man." Haven't seen it? Don't bother. Also, in the middle of the night, I woke up hearing a pretty heavy snorer two seats behind me. We were stopped so the driver could stretch and have food, and as soon as we started again either the road noise drowned him out or he stopped.
Rosa, her father (Zenobio), and I left for Chiloe on the 15th of July. I have to admit, I was very disappointed to find out we were taking a bus. Bus travel, to me, seems cramped, slow, and uncomfortable. Especially when our destination was over 1000 miles south of our departure. We took the bus from town down to Santiago, where Piero was going to meet us with our overnight bus tickets. When we arrived, Piero greeted us with a surprise: he bought us Salon Cama tickets! A Salon Cama bus is specifically designed for overnight trips; there were only three seats across instead of four, seats reclined almost completely, and there was an additional leg rest, making for a nice bed. We were served a small dinner and breakfast as well. As I settled in for our first 10 hour leg of the journey south - with my iPod and copy of The Yellow Dog Ate My Homework and Other Colorful Tales - I was much more optimistic about the trip.
Two small downfalls: they showed a movie with no headphones so, no matter what, I had to hear it. I gave in and decided to watch. The bad part? It was the Wayans Brothers' hit film "Little Man." Haven't seen it? Don't bother. Also, in the middle of the night, I woke up hearing a pretty heavy snorer two seats behind me. We were stopped so the driver could stretch and have food, and as soon as we started again either the road noise drowned him out or he stopped.
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